You didn’t think I’d leave you without a Thanksgiving recipe, did you? I’m going to be running around from my mother-in law’s house to my parents and I need the most portable thing to bring with me. The consequence of cultivating a food blog is that when it comes to gatherings, no matter how far away, you’re expected to bring something superb. I’ve decided my most portable recipe is this rustic loaf and I have two currently rising in my fridge (but see my procrastinators notes on that recipe). They travel better than a pie.
Lately though, I’ve been salivating over versions of this gallette that I’ve seen hanging around the internets, like here, and here and here, with a nod to Food52’s sketch of a savory gallette, which I’ve had bookmarked for a year. This gorgeous, herb-infused treasure reminds me of a savory tarte tatin. A galette is basically pizza’s more rustic, less fussy cousin with butter. It’s perfect for someone who doesn’t have the forethought to make above-mentioned rustic loaves (usually me), but wants a crusty, savory, doughy treat anyway, with all the charm and none of the waiting. Curated imperfection is the name of the game here making it nearly impossible to mess this up. Flaws are endearing. They add character. And every part of it can be done in advance.
I have been in court all week this past week, which is actually surprisingly rare for a litigator at a big firm. I have to say, I can get behind this whole government schedule, with perks such as: no work on Federal holidays, a full lunch HOUR, like a real HOUR, sometimes more, and since the courts in New York are all near Chinatown and Little Italy, really good food nearby! And out by 5pm, no matter what. WHAT!? Despite usually having to work a little longer, this is the government-set framework for my schedule and I am all about it. That and all the new coffee spots. And saying “withdrawn” after a sentence then starting over as if you never said anything at all.
Little by little I built this gallette into my new schedule, using my favorite squash, delicata, for its ease and flavor. Bake the squash one night as the onions slowly caramelize over a low flame. Make the dough another night before bed. Wilt the greens another time (if adding, because without the wilting, the water will mess with the baking ratios). Anything goes here really. When you’re ready, just throw the components together, gently fold and bake. While the squash takes the main stage the key to flavor is in the details. Rich, balsamic vinegar teases out the taste of the sweet, jammy onions. Sage and rosemary imbued with the enduring flavors of the season are woven into the dough and sprinkled over the nutty, smooth squash filling.
This is slow food done slowly, a pause in juggling the flaming hoops and all of life’s beautiful distractions that compete so fiercely for our attention. It’s the meditative nature of slow cooking that keeps you grounded, insisting on the time it takes for quality, but not so much that you feel compromised. Happy Thanksgiving. Slow down and enjoy.
SAVORY DELICATA SQUASH GALLETTE
For The Crust:
- 1 1/4 cups (about 156g) all-purpose flour
- 1/4 tsp salt
- 1/2 cup (1 stick or 113g) unsalted butter, frozen
- 1/4 cup ice water (plus 1 or 2 tbsp more, depending)
- 1 tsp finely chopped fresh sage
- 1 tsp finely chopped rosemary
For The Filling:
- 1/2 lb delicata squash (about one medium one) sliced
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- 1 tsp salt, divided
- 1-2 tbsp butter
- 1 large red onion, thinly sliced
- 1 tsp minced garlic
- 1/2 tsp chopped sage
- 1/2 tsp chopped roesemary
- 1 tsp balsamic vinegar
- 3-4 tbsp goat cheese
For The Crust:
Remove the butter from the freezer and let it thaw briefly while you prepare the dry ingredients.Whisk together the flour, salt, sage and rosemary. Using the coarsest holes on a box grater, grate the frozen butter into the flour, then mix gently with your fingers to incorporate it into the flour until no big clumps remain. Sprinkle three tablespoons of the ice water evenly over the mixture and stir with a wooden spoon to incorporate. When the mixture holds together when squeezed, it has enough moisture — if it won’t hold, add more water, a tablespoon at a time, until it does. Knead gently a few times to gather it into a dough, then wrap it into a disk in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator to chill for at least an hour and up to a day ahead. For longer than a day in advance, freeze the dough.
For The Squash:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Wash and scrub the squash, then cut in half and scoop out the seeds. Slice sideways into 1/4-inch thick slices. You can keep the skin on. Toss pieces with olive oil and about half the salt, then place in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet and roast for 20 minutes or until pieces are tender. Set aside to cool slightly.
For The Onions:
While the squash is roasting, melt the butter in a heavy skillet. Lay the onion slices in a single layer (they can overlap slightly), then cook over low heat, stirring once every 10 minutes or so, until soft, brown, and jammy. In the last 2 minutes of cooking, add the minced garlic, sage, and balsamic vinegar (if using). Let cool briefly.
Raise the oven temperature to 400 degrees. Roll the galette dough out to a 12-inch circle between two pieces of parchment paper. Peel off the top piece of parchment paper, then line the galette with squash slices, caramelized onions, and goat cheese, leaving a 1 to 1 1/2-inch border. Fold the edges over the filling, pleating as desired. If you like, brush a bit of beaten egg or heavy cream over the crust for a more golden crust.*
Bake until golden brown, 30 to 40 minutes. Let cool briefly.
*Note: You can also add wilted greens to the assembly stage or turkey sausage like I did. I sauteed them both first and just added them to the mix.